On top of the world

Dining at Bosman’s restaurant is a gourmet adventure

“I was only meant to stay in South Africa for six months,” says executive chef, Roland Gorgosilich. He’s about to start dinner service at Bosman’s restaurant at the Grande Roche in Paarl. A strapping Austrian, Roland looks meticulous in his chef’s jacket. A trait, I’m sure, he carries over to his menu too. The six months soon turned into six years, and he isn't going anywhere. “It’s slow here, (South Africa) though,” he says emphatically. “I’ve had to get used to that!”

Happily married, he lives in Paarl with his wife and their two Rottweiler dogs. Fitting pets for this commanding chef, I think. “I have a very loud voice,” he says, “I’m direct with my team; there’s no room for error.” 

When asked if he always wanted to be a chef, Roland says: “Actually no, I wanted to become a policeman. To join the special forces, but I was too young.” This prompted Roland at age 17 to do an apprenticeship at one of Salzburg’s oldest hotels, Schlosswirt zu Anif, which dates back to the 1600s. Fast forward to a few sojourns at Michelin Star restaurants across Germany, and Roland found his passion. “I felt the ‘trigger’,” he says. “I fell in love with food, and had the desire to push myself to the limit.”

Roland gets up, shakes my hand and strides across Bosman’s marble floor. It’s time to prep for dinner.

The Grande Roche estate dates bake to the 18th century and a walk around the grounds will reveal its colonial treasures. On the property there’s a chapel the size of a small corner café, over 300-years-old, many couples wed in the dainty interior, which is characterised by original stained glass windows as well as a wind organ. If you’re lucky enough to get married here your name will be inscribed onto a brass plate fastened to its doors. There are also old slave’s quarters (which have been converted into hotel rooms), a slave bell and a Dutch oven to go view.

A dining experience to rival all others

In my opinion Bosman’s restaurant is the gem of the equation, it’s situated at the top of a hill and at night the converted manor house looks over a twinkling Paarl, during the day the winelands are spread out in full view. The interior is an elegant affair; crystal chandeliers stretch seemingly endlessly along the ceiling, an illusion helped by cleverly placed mirrors. Plush furnishing and heavy silverware make up the rest of the dining component.

After aperitifs on the patio of Silverthorn Pinot Noir Méthode Cap Classique (MCC), we move inside for dinner. Swede, Josephine Gutentoft, Bosman’s sommelier comes to our table. Petite and pretty, with big brown eyes and short brunette hair, she pours us more bubbly in the form of Saltare MCC, made from hand-harvested pinot noir.

Josephine is switched on; she’s passionate and knowledgeable throughout the evening. The tasting menu swims by with artful pairings. Some highlights include: the Howard Booysens Riesling paired with a salmon carpaccio topped with wasabi ice cream, and a lemon and salmon roe vinaigrette, Paul Cluver Gewürztraminer matches a foie gras terrine perfectly, it’s served with glazed figs and a red cabbage puree. The Vinium Black Rock, an oxidative blend, complements kingklip glazed with a shellfish reduction.

Also delicious are; thin, pink slices of duck breast with a glorious butternut soup, which is poured over the breast at the table, this we wash down with Springfield’s Wild Yeast Chardonnay. Then, the softest oxtail presented with roasted vanilla carrots and paired with Vriesenhof Pinot Noir 2007. Another very special wine that deserves a mention is the El Bandito from Lammershoek. It’s a chenin made in the same style as a red wine, and it’s weighty, golden and complex.

Josephine and Roland have truly blown me away. I float home on a cloud. The good news is you can too; from 27 May to 28 October they’ll be hosting Gourmet Wine Evenings. Expect a five course dinner paired with unusual South African Wines, as well as a chance to get to chat to the winemakers on the evenings.

By Malu Lambert

Grande Roche Hotel & Restaurants | Bosman Street | Paarl | +27 (0)41 4071000

27 May: A.A Badenhorst Wines, 10 June: The House of Krone, 22 July Glen Carlou, 26 August: Backsberg, 3 September: Nederburg Pre-auction dinner, 28 October: Raats Family Wines. R1500 includes a night’s stay at the Grande Roche and a full English breakfast.

Top tip: For a more relaxed experience try the hotel’s Bistro Allegro.

Roland Gorgosilich shares a traditional Austrian recipe for Glühwein (mulled wine).