Ekasie Backpackers Challenges Perceptions of Townships

Born here, raised here, still here and proud of it

Townships are often perceived as dangerous and hostile environments. In fact, a group of documentary makers from London were once so afraid that they arrived at Ekasie Backpackers, in the township of Khayelitsha, accompanied by a private security firm. If Khayelitsha is as dangerous as the media portrays, why did they ask the security firm to leave, shortly after their arrival?

Husband and wife team, Luba and Noma, opened Ekasie Backpackers on 26th April, the eve of freedom day, 2005.They do not transport cars full of tourists, staring pitifully out of the window; rather they walk tourists right into the heart of their home, the township of Khayelitsha, to experience heritage and culture first hand. During our time in Khayelitsha, I am compelled to tell you that we were not victims of theft, we didn’t experience racism and we didn’t witness any violent behavior.

Afro Chic rooms in vibrant colours and patterns

Luba shows us around the hostel: Ekasie means ‘township’ and this original Khayelitsha house was previously inhabited by Luba’s parents. All of the five bedrooms are named after townships. For example, Qwa Qwa, named after the Free State Provence, is a dormitory that sleeps four, priced at R100pp, and Soweto is a double room, for R300 per night. Noma has shown off her artistic flare with vibrant, colourful, Afro-chic décor.

We are lucky to be staying in the best room in the hostel, Kwa Mashu, named after the province in Kwa Zulu Natal province, priced at R400 per night. It is by far one of the most luxurious and spacious hostel rooms I have ever stayed in – dark red walls adorned with South African art, black upholstery and a modern bathroom. This room has some charming quirks such as, heaters, towels, soap and extra blankets.

There are no boundaries in Khayelitsha and everybody knows eachother

After settling in, we are greeted downstairs by our guide, Gerald. As we walk, he explains that although Khayelitsha is separated into sites, ranging from A-Z, there are no boundaries here and everybody knows each other. Luba and Gerald take us to a few of the Shebeen’s (pubs) such as, Nomonde’s Place and Dansta. The locals are keen to introduce themselves and shake hands. We feel welcome, not threatened. One of the locals shows us the handshakes of the Xhosa men. Handshakes are performed with a strong grip, as if saying: ‘I feel you’, and one handshake finishes with a beat to the chest, as if saying: ‘I love you’. We end the night at an up-beat disco, packed with a young fashionable crowd who are all incredible dancers.

On Sunday morning, Noma has whipped up a traditional South African breakfast. To start with, we eat Umphokoqo, also known as African Salad, which is a hearty blend of mealie meal and sour milk (very filling). We also try Isibindi; chicken liver served with scrambled egg and bread. We hail from the UK, where chicken liver is usually eaten by the older generations and eggs are usually accompanied by bacon and baked beans, so it’s interesting to try something new. Ekasie offer South African cookery lessons at R20 per person (in addition to your meal).

Positive development and community projects

After breakfast, we begin a walking tour with Gerald (priced at R200 per person). Khayelitsha was built in 1983, to accommodate the men that were here to work mainly from the Eastern Cape, without their families. The government is building houses (called RDP houses) for those living in the shacks and backyard dwellers. Although it is understood that Rome wasn’t built in a day, people can wait up to 10-15 years to move from the shacks to proper housing and Luba feels that expectations could be managed more effectively. However, we can see that there has been positive development here such as, schools, a public swimming pool and a court house. A hospital is near completion, creating more jobs in the area. In fact, the government pledges that 30% of new construction work in the area must go to Khayelitsha residents.

Most Khayelitsha residents are Christians and followers contribute up to 10% of their earnings to maintain the local churches. Funerals have recently become a grand affair – tents are erected outside the houses of the deceased and most people from the community attends. Women pull out all the stops to look their best, often buying new outfits.

Gerald points out a number of community development projects including, an allotment, where the elderly may tend cabbages and spinach. Community activities, like craft markets, are hosted by the tourism centre at Lookout Hill. Two months ago, Gerald formed a team of talented young footballers and is currently looking for sponsorship.

The Xhosa journey from a boy to a man

As we ascend the fynbos lined steps of Lookout Hill, Gerald shows us a number of small huts. This is where boys who have reached 18 will undergo their initiation to become men and take on family responsibilities. Usually the boys will have spent time at initiation school, learning how to be a good and decent man and treat women with respect. Their guide, known as Ikhankata, will take the boy, known as Umkhwetha, through this right of passage, which involves circumcision. The men are then allowed to sit with other men, during traditional ceremonies in the community. Luba cannot say much about the initiation school as there is a woman around.

Luba has a successful business and could move to the city if he wanted to, but he’s proud of where he comes from and wants to stay close to his friends. Luba loves to give other people the experience of staying in his township and interacting with his community. Despite what the media says, we didn’t feel that anything would happen here that wouldn’t in any other area. Ekasie challenges these negative perceptions and reveals an overwhelming sense of community that would put a lot of other areas to shame. We’ve come away from this experience with some new friends and have been given a raw insight into how people live in the South African townships.

For more insights into South African townships, be sure to visit our Township Tours Section

By Lisa Nevitt