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There’s something about Muizenberg. It has an air of history, like a London by the sea: crumbling buildings, weathered by salted-wind, architecture from another time—not given airs, but instead neglected and often the canvas for street art.
To truly experience the forgotten romance of this walk, take the train to Muizenberg station, built in 1913 (today it’s a national monument) and start the walk from there. Bring the family along: most generations can do the path—as long as they’re willing and able.
We’re wearing V-Lite Altitude Ultra Luxe WPi Hi-Tecs, but Hi-Tec beach sandals would also do the trick, as there are coves and rock pools to explore.
Columnist and satirist, Mike Lundy, says that the coastal stretch between Muizenberg and St. James railway stations was once known as Cape Town’s Golden Mile.
History peers out of the windows of the once-grand mansions, and Lundy muses how ‘Cecil John Rhodes thought the iodised salts from the sea would benefit his ailing health. He was at the tender age of 44 when he bought his cottage-by-the-sea, right here along this walk’.
Aside from the derelict grandeur to gaze upon, there are sea and mountain views too.
What to bring
Route
St James Coastal Walk
Easy
Take the train to Muizenberg station, or park in its parking lot. Cross over the tracks and keep a beady eye out oncoming trains. Follow the concrete path as it winds itself along the coast. You’ll pass the odd weathered fisherman casting his line out to sea. There are a few memorial benches along the way, should you need to catch your breath – our favourite read: ‘remembering you babe.’
It’s advised to go during low tide, or you could risk getting wet feet. Stop off by the famous Victorian bathing huts, picnic, swim and build that fort.
Another idea is to walk along Muizenberg beach till you reach this boardwalk, or when you reach St. James, keep going to Kalk Bay for some antiquing.
Duration: 40 minutes for those going fast, and hour and a half for the slow pokes and picnickers.
What to look out for
Fauna: We spotted a baby seal on the rocks. This also a great route for whale and dolphin watching: the high season is between October and November. Marvel at the sea creatures in the tidal pools, and look out for the odd dassie.
Trivia: Keep an eye out for St James Cottage, built in 1853. The owner, Abraham Auret, was said to have hid prisoners of war in the loft during the Anglo-Boer War, and helped stage their escape across the bay.
By Malu Lambert
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Get bargains and local food at the Muizenberg Flea Market.
Experience luxury by the ocean at the Casa Labia.
A leisurely walk through one of the oldest Pinotage vineyards at Top Of The Hill vineyard walk.
Learn magical things in a wild woman’s home at the Herbalism Workshop in Muizenberg.
Improve your writing skills at this workshop in Muizenberg called Creative Saturdays.
Walk a personal pilgrimage to slow down and take a break from a busy life during the Cape Camino.
Hurry and book to find out the incredible secret line-up of live music, spoken word poetry, comedy and dance in Muizenberg homes at Village Vibes.
Check out the all-new beach-style Folk Cafe in St James.
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Have a look at our Facebook album of the route and follow us on Twitter to find out where (and what) we’ll be hiking next. Plus, subscribe to our weekly newsletter for a seven-day weather forecast
Go fly a kite at the Cape Town International Kite Festival.
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